Revision: Action of Ice
Definitions
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Coast: The strip of land where it meets the sea
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Coastline: The margin of land. The limit to which wave action takes place.
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Shore: The strip of land lying between the high and low water levels.
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Shoreline: The limit of the shore. The line where the shore and the water meet.
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Beach: A shore covered by a deposit of sand and/or pebbles.
Factors Determining the Nature of Coasts
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Wave action
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Tidal currents
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Nature of the rocks forming the coast
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Height of the coast
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Nature of the climate
Formation of Waves
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Wind blows over the sea surface.
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The surface of the sea exerts frictional drag on the lower layer of the wind.
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The top layer (with the least drag) moves faster than the lower layer and hence tumbles over it.
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This causes a circular motion of wind energy that acts on the sea to create waves.
Wave Erosion
Wave erosion like river erosion involves 4 processes:
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Abrasion/Corrosion: The wearing away of the sides and the bed of a river by the impact of the load.
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Hydraulic Action: Erosion by the force of moving water.
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Attrition: The breaking down of the load by particles hitting against each other.
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Solution/Corrosion: When minerals dissolve in water.
Features Produced by Wave Erosion
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A notch is cut by waves at high tide level and developed further.
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As this notch is developed, a cliff is formed.
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The cliff steepens as weathering attacks the base further.
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As the cliff retreats, the rock debris is swept by the backwash creating a wave-cut platform.
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Some of the debris collects along the seaward edge of the wave-cut platform forming and off-shore terrace.
Caves, Geos, Arches and Stacks
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Holes in the cliff face are enlarged by wave action
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A tunnel like opening called a cave is formed.
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The cave may develop further forming a long narrow inlet known as a geo.
An arch is created when a cave in a headland is eroded right through i.e. the inlet has two openings
When the arch collapses, the end of a headland stands up as a stack.
Headlands and Bays
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These are formed in areas of alternating resistant and less resistant rocks.
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Erosion/wave action acts less on the more resistant rock creating headlands and more on the less resistant rock creating bays.
Factors Affecting the Rate of Wave Erosion
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Breaking point of the wave.
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Wave steepness
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Configuration of the coastline
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Depth of the sea
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Supply of beach material
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Beach width
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Nature of the rock
Wave Transport
Sources of the load include:
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Rivers entering the sea
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Landslide on cliffs
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Wave erosion
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Types of material transported include:
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Sand
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Shingles
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Mud
Process: Swash (forward moving waves) and backwash push and drag material up and down the shore resulting in longshore drift.
Wave Depositional Features
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Beach: Formed by deposition of mud, sand or pebbles along the coast.
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Barrier Beach: A long ridge of sand parallel to but separated from the coast ridge by a lagoon.
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Spit: A narrow ridge of sand joined to the mainland with the other end terminating in the sea
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Bar: A ridge of material (usually sand) lying parallel to the coast
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Tombolo: A ridge joining an island to the mainland
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Offshore Bar: Developed on the gently sloping seabed. Occurs when sand is thrown up by waves breaking close to the coast.
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Mudflat: Developed when tides/waves deposit fine sand along gently sloping coasts particularly in bars and estuaries.
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